National Palace Musuem

Something my professor in Chinese Politics at SOAS once said has always stuck with me:
"If you only go to Taiwan to visit the National Palace Museum, then this alone will be worth the trip".

Of course, there is much more to see, eat and do in Taiwan than just the museum, but my professor was right. The National Palace Museum ranks up there with the world-class museums in London (the British Museum), Paris (the Louvre) and New York (the Metropolitan), and is famed for its huge collection of Chinese art and culture.

It is easy to see why. Situated between green mountains in the suburbs of Taipei, the museum has over half a million artifacts that date back to five thousands years before the common era (BCE). Only a tiny fraction of the collection can be on display, while the rest are hidden inside a huge cave in the mountain behind it. Given the 3 month display cycle, they say it will take twelve years to see everything.

Admittedly the collection was largely 'taken' from China at the end of the Chinese Civil War. Then, with the help of the Americans, the failed Kuomingtang regime gradually fled to Taiwan, taken much the of gold and precious treasures of ancient China with them. But, as my professor said, it was perhaps a good thing that all these treasures are now still preserved in Taiwan, because much of it would have been lost in the frenzy of the Cultural Revolution. Thus the Forbidden Palace in Beijing, where most of the artifacts were originally located, today stands largely bare. While in Taipei visitors are able to enjoy magnificent works of calligraphy, pottery, masonry and the symbolisms and longevity of Chinese culture throughout the millennia.

While much of the rest of the world lived in caves (some 6000BCE), bronze ceremonial vessels were already being shaped and made in the large expanse of what is known as China today. Wars, disasters man-made and natural, upheavals, and the rise and fall and rise of states together mark the long history of China. It is a country (if ever it can be called one) of great resilience and vigour, with a rich heritage, yet is philosophically humble and respectful to all others. (At least in times of peace). In times when China has historically been powerful and more territorial agressive, one should perhaps heed Napoleon's advice to "Let the dragon sleep". This applies no less today.

Even the Ancient Greeks would probably have been awed at those statues of elaborately carved and gilded Buddhas and dieties, and the scriptures that describe Taoist-Way and the wisdom of Confucius and Mencius. This is after all where the wheel, paper and fireworks were all invented. And in the process great works of art and culture have thrived. Further, there are beautiful calligraphy writings that capture the essence of human creativity and the flow of nature, right next to ornate paintings depicting life in the luxury of emperor's palace. Fine jade works and ivory carvings, ceramics and vases stand admirably under intense lighting that bring out their every curve and the careful craftsmanship.

Culture, religion, philosophy and daily life in a peasant village and in the imperial court can all be gleamed from the eye to detail and finesse in every single item on display. A civillisation's greatness is often captured by the remnants of its dynasties, and certainly ancient China had many, many that outlived those in Europe or elsewhere. (see part of the amazing collection here.)